Natal Witness.

STEPHEN COAN visited the new Zulu cultural village at Rorke’s Drift

I somehow managed to pick the coldest day of the year so far to visit the new Zulu cultural village at Rorke’s Drift. When I stopped briefly in Dundee people were still talking about the snow that had fallen that morning.

When I arrived at Rorke’s Drift there were few people around. A few dogged tourists draped in blankets dutifully followed their guides, who were busy outlining the historic battle where around 150 British soldiers defended a supply station created around the existing mission station against some 4 000 Zulus on January 22 and 23, 1879. The battle, in which the most Victoria Crosses were awarded to a regiment for a single action (11 in all), followed the overwhelming Zulu victory at Isandlwana, the sphinx-like mountain visible in the distance from the road to Rorke’s Drift.

The new village is situated beside the road to Rorke’s Drift and just a few paces from the battle site. “Welcome — Please come in and see our village” says the sign. After parking under a thorn tree I discovered that the village’s guiding hand, Emmanuel Mkhize, was down with influenza so his brother Mcnedi Mkhize showed me around instead. The village is about as authentic as you can get, with 10 beehive huts set in a typical Zulu family arrangement around a central cattle kraal. You can do a tour of the village and there is a daily programme of dance displays. The village now has eight Nguni cattle which are kraaled for the daily performance and then let free to roam nearby under the care of a local watchman. The interiors of the huts are kitted out with traditional grass sleeping mats, head rests and authentic culinary items.

The construction and management of the village has been funded and supported by the UK-based Anglo-Zulu War Historical Society (AZWHS) headed by Adrian Greaves, the author of books on the battles of Rorke’s Drift and Isandlwana, and co-author with the late David Rattray of David Rattray’s Guide to the Battlefields of the Anglo-Zulu War. “But the original idea for the village came from Emmanuel,” says Greaves.

Mkhize, who was born at Rorke’s Drift, became interested in Zulu history and culture as a boy and naturally drifted towards David Rattray’s Fugitive’s Drift Lodge. “I was first employed by David to help around the lodge in the gardens and to wash guests’ cars, that’s how I first met Adrian,” he says. “David said if I passed my exams he would take me on as a barman. I passed and began working as a barman.”

When Rattray’s business partner Dave Charles moved to the coast, Mkhize went with him and together they set up a Zulu village at “The Kingdom” near Ballito which Mkhize ran for about three years. “During that time I studied, took the exams and became a qualified tour guide,” says Mkhize.

The Kingdom had to close when the site was overtaken by development and Mkhize decided to start up his own tourism venture on the coast — a Zulu cultural village — and he wrote to Greaves for assistance. Greaves said he would support the venture — if it was at Rorke’s Drift.“I told Emmanuel I would personally support him if he built a village at Rorke’s Drift,” says Greaves. “I was keen to help as I have known him since

“By this time Emmanuel had already run a Zulu village for tourists and his command of English is excellent,” says Greaves. “He has also accompanied me on numerous visits to the Zulu battlefields over the years and knows the subject.” Mkhize recalls that both “David and Adrian said ‘don’t do it on the coast, come back to Rorke’s Drift, here it will be a success and we will help you’.”

The venture had both Rattray’s, and his wife Nicky’s, blessing and moral support, says Greaves. “This was something that both were happy to keep an eye on and their advice and support has been invaluable.”

Mkhize’s request for assistance was also well-timed: Greaves wanted to do something to help the local community at Rorke’s Drift. “I and the AZWHS have a history of helping the schools and church there over the last 10 years or so,” says Greaves. “But my real wish was to create something visible and lasting — and with the chance of giving some employment.

Despite Rorke’s Drift being a major tourist attraction, visitors do not contribute directly to the local community. “The battlefield is an official government site,” says Greaves, “and of little benefit to the local people.”

“There are no opportunities at Rorke’s Drift for battlefield visitors to gain any insight into the traditional Zulu way of life,” says Greaves. “When overseas visitors visit Zululand most never see a Zulu in traditional dress — those visiting Rorke’s Drift will now have that opportunity. Once the green light had been given Mkhize costed the project and Greaves set about raising the estimated R150 000 to get it off the ground — this involved land purchase, the clearing of the site, the building of the beehive huts and associated traditional structures, as well as a car park and toilet facilities.

“Having first visited the site last December with the society accountant I decided to contribute myself,” says Greaves, “and the rest was raised by members of the AZWHS which has about 1 200 members, mainly in the UK. For the next two years Greaves will also donate the profits from his Anglo-Zulu War books to the project.

“The construction was carried out by local craftsmen and women — that was part of the deal,” says Greaves, who keeps a close eye on the project. “Emmanuel and I speak twice a week, our members visit the site regularly and report back to me. I visit about three times a year and the accounts are monitored by an accountant at Dundee, alongside the society accountant.”

All those employed to work at the village are drawn from the surrounding community, says Mkhize. “These include the women who stay in the village as well as Zulu dancers and Zulu warriors. Further employment will be offered when we open a curio shop and a restaurant.” The village currently employees 10 full-time staff and additional dancers are being trained.The village is now on a number of tour guides’ itineraries and its potential is growing. The provision of toilets and showers encourages overnight visitors and a camping site is under construction. Several children’s groups have booked for the tour of the village and to stay overnight. “There are the traditional grass sleeping mats if you wish to stay in traditional style — but there are also sponge mattresses if you want,” says Mkhize, who also takes tour groups over the adjacent battlefield or to Isandlwana. “I love going to Isandlwana,” he says. “It was a great victory for the Zulus, I love it.”

Greaves says the creation of the village means a great deal to him. “My Rorke’s Drift book has now sold over 35 000 copies and I’m delighted to be able to put something back into the community.”

Published: 5 June 2007